Happy New Year!

Hope everyone is having a very happy new year!

2012 was a really productive year here at Adriprints Press!

In sewing and quilting, I made quite a few items, and met my goals for 2012
2 quilt tops (brown quilt is nearly fully quilted)
3 trousers (2 jeans, 1 clover)
1 fitted jacket
1 wool coat
2 dresses
5 tops (1 hoodie, 1 sleeveless, 1 pullover, 1 buttoned sleeveless, 1 buttoned short sleeved)
1 apron
1 dirndl bodice
1 plaid skirt

In knitting design, I had a good number of items published (self-published or otherwise)
Oslo Star Hat
Alhambra Hat
Stripey Legwarmers
Orange Blossom Camisole
Squishy Mittens
Squishy Chullo Hat
Amaranth Shawl
Amaranth Headband
... and I am waiting for a few more to be published hopefully early this year including: a children's line,
Squishy Vest, and a mystery plaid set.

In hobby knitting, I made quite a few items including a really lovely cabled sweater (Beatnik), an Easter bunny/egg, finally knit Sam's second sock, a few hats, and am working on 2 cardigans.

In crochet, I finished one of the cutest projects ever: the Yellow Submarine Booties, designed by my friend Nuria over at Red Sewing Box.

I published 1 font this year, Kicks, and hope to update and create some new ones this year.

And, my 2013 New Years Resolutions...
knitting- publish a few more patterns, learn brioche knitting
crochet - do a bit more of it
sewing- sew a pair of perfectly fitting jeans/trousers, drape 1 dress or outfit
quilting- finish quilting the 2 quilts from last year and make 1 quilt
design - learn more about WordPress to create an online shop

The Edie Coat, Vogue 7239 (1967)

As originally posted in The Sew Weekly for the 1960's Challenge..

The Facts
⁃ Fabric: 3m wool, 2m lining, interfacing
⁃ Pattern: Vogue 7239

⁃ Year: 1967
⁃ Notions: 3 buttons
⁃ Time to complete: several weeks in October
⁃ First worn: end of October
⁃ Wear again?  Since it's been cold, I haven't stopped wearing it!
⁃ Total price: ~30EUR =  7EUR/m for wool (21EUR), $2.50/m China Silk Poly for lining (5 EUR), interfacing, thread, etc...

Pattern Story - I won this pattern from a giveaway on the Seamless Blog, and will give it away once this is published on the Sew Weekly.  Look out for a blog post from me if you're interested in entering the giveaway.

I loved the pattern.  There is one funny bit around the neckline, and the finishing of the neck band, but other from that it was smooth sailing.  I had help from the Threads book on tailoring, and my Claire Schaeffer's fabric guide book.  I was set.  I didn't have to change a thing in the pattern except length of the sleeves and hem.  That was nice!

Here are some of the inner workings...
bound buttonholes

feather stitching, fuchsia lining

groovy pocket fabric

I had a lot of fun working on this coat and once it was finished, I realized this one was a true keeper.  I've been wearing it regularly ever since.  The coat reminds me of Edie Sedgwick for some reason.  Something about my haircut these days, perhaps?

Pupp-o decided to get in on these shots. Hey there, puppy-face!

Iris Pullover

I'm glad to finally be sewing again!  Here's a quick project I made in the in-between times.  Knitwear design is still taking the priority spot on my agenda, but hopefully I'll have some pretty samples to show for it in the near future!

In the meantime, here's the Iris Pullover from Schnittchen® - einfach nähe...
Schnittchen's downloadable patterns are much in the style of Burda and Knipmode in that you print out a large sheet with multiple sizes, and then you mark and trace just your size.  The patterns are unlike Burda/Knipmode in that they actually include seam allowances!  Woot!

For this kind of oversized garment it was nice to have the seam allowances already done... makes for quick, quick, quick sewing when it's just ~1/4" seam allowance (width of a sewing foot) and go go go!  It took me just a few hours to sew, and you don't need an overlocker (though it would make things even faster!) just a straight stitch and a zig-zag stitch.

So here it is!  My Iris Pullover...

This jersey knit fabric was lovely to work with albeit on the thin side.  I am definitely going to make another one when I can get my hands on some sweatshirt fabric at a reasonable price.  Suggestions are welcome for sweatshirt fabric resources in the EU!

The Facts
Fabric: 1.5m x 1.5m striped knit jersey from TST-Stoffen (at Stoffmarkt Holland fabric market)
Pattern: Iris Pullover from Schnittchen (has link to photo instructions)
Also, check out some of the free patterns on the site here.
Year: 2012?
Notions: none
Time to complete: 4 hours
First worn: Nov. 16, 2012
Wear again?  YES, I love it.  It's really comfy.
Total price: 5 EUR for the fabric

I love the way this pattern turned out.  I love the over-long sleeves so I can hide my hands inside the cuffs, and the long body so it covers everything.

Possible Mods for next time
It's too bad I didn't have a little more of the fabric, otherwise I'd have made it with the hoodie.  (Instead, with the little extra I had left, I'll be making some undies.)
I think I may also include a thumb gusset so I can stick my thumbs in the cuff and use the cuffs like pseudo-gloves.  Why not?

Overall Review
The Iris Pullover pattern is do-able for beginners with a machine that has a zigzag and a straight stitch.  Only special tool needed was a needle for elastics.  I used a Schmetz Stretch 75/11 needle.
Happy Sewing!

Sew Weekly: Apron Challenge!

Just finished the Sew Weekly Apron Challenge this weekend, and I wanted to share my experience with you all because drafting your own apron is pretty easy and satisfying.

Making your own apron for whatever reason - in my case it was to match a dirndl I had made - is really easy.  This type of apron is a simple wrap-around apron with two straps that are long enough to wrap around the waist and tie in front.

You begin with a rectangle of fabric.  I measured mine out so my rectangle was about 8" less than my hips measurement.  The length is purely up to the matching skirt or your preference...

My rectangle was 31" W x 22 1/2" L
30" + 1" of seam allowance = 31" wide
21" + 1/2" seam allowance at the top, 1" seam allowance for a hem = 22 1/2" tall

To finish the edges, turn the edge over by 1/4" - press, then turn them over again, pin (see photo above), and stitch.

I knew that I wanted to gather the apron top to a width of about 12" to 13" so I kept this in mind when I next tackled the apron ties.  For an apron tie to wrap around my waist, and then be able to make a bow at the front, I needed about 115 to 120" of strap length.

My rectangle for the ties was 3" W x approx. 120" L

Because I didn't want a seam to be smack in the middle of the apron, I joined several lengths of fabric that were 3" wide with a flat-felled seam until I had the length I wanted and was sure no seam would land at the center.

Next, turn under the raw edges of the strap fabric 1/4", press, then fold over another 1/4" and stitch those edges down.  Then press the strap in half.

Mark the center of the strap with a pin.  Then mark the wrong side of the fabric 6 1/2" to each side of the center (6 1/2" x 2 = 13" gathering).

To gather the fabric, stitch two lines of super-wide basting stitches to the top of the apron and gather them until they are just inside the marked gathering lines.  I pinned strap + apron fabric right sides together and stitched across the bottom line of basting.  Then, press and turn up the strap, fold it over the remaining raw edge of the gathered apron, and top-stitch to seal the deal.  Make your hem as needed.

If you find that your apron ties are really uneven after tying a bow, add a bit of length to the end of the lacking strap. The last remaining detail is the triangle tips of the apron ties.  You fold the length of the ribbon in half with right sides facing, then sew along the short edge.  Press this little seam open, and when you flip it back out to the right side, let it be a triangle instead of forcing the seam all the way.  Press and stitch across the triangle.

Here's what the whole ensemble looked like when I was done... dirndl bodice, apron, and skirt.

Jeans, Jeans, Good for the Heart

I think July might be jeans month for me.  I started on the first pair after the cropped hoodie project (Her Pretty Ways, View A).  I had leftovers from the first trousers I sewed (remember the Clovers I did earlier this year?).

Using Jalie 2908, I made my first pair of jeans, and wow what a learning curve!  It took me nearly two weeks working a few hours a night, studying the instructions, looking at my jeans and that of every person I stood behind or near... I think the part that took me the longest (don't laugh) was the back pocket embroidery.  I was soooo scared it would look awful, that I fretted over it for several days.  It is a combination of hand-embroidery and machine stitching.

Fit-wise, the jeans are really nice around the thighs, but it's a bit tight at the waist.  I definitely "muffin-top" with these pair when I'm sitting.

I learned heaps after making this first pair, and here's a summary of tips and tricks from the first go-around...
  • top stitching can be very tricky over multiple folds of fabric such as near the back yoke and crotch area, be sure to have a guide on your presser foot clearly marked or a guide on the fabric
  • those bar-tacked reinforced areas are there for a reason (my fly began to unravel as soon as the stretch denim felt the pull of my mighty thighs).  I quickly tacked where they said to.
  • make sure the zipper guard covers the whole zipper
  • the stretch needle is a must for stretch denim, otherwise one suffers from skipped stitches
  • be sure to align the buttonhole with the actual button and try them on to check for fit before cutting it open!
  • top-stitch only once to define the curved stitch-lines of the outer fly otherwise it looks funny
  • pay attention to the orientation of the belt loops when attaching the waist yoke.  It is troublesome to undo and redo them.
These are the first pair... They were on the Sew Weekly here.

 The second pair came together much quicker. I went with one size larger with mixed results.  The jeans are comfortable, but maybe a little too big at the waist.  They are definitely wearable and comfy.   Instead of taking me two weeks, it took me only two afternoons (about 8 hours or so).  I wrote about them for Tuesday's "featurette" on Sew Weekly here.

I came up with a few tricks to make this pair look like my favorite pair...
  • double the top thread to get a thicker line of top-stitching (test this first on scraps as it may result in skipped stitches with funky tension, also, sew slowly)
  • use two different color threads - one for top-stitching, and another closer to the denim for construction, and subtler lines like those used to install the belt loops, and the curved stitch-line of the outer fly
  • although instructions say lay the zipper face down with the teeth aligned to center line, I'd actually move those a little left of the center line.  My zipper teeth tend to show a little on the edge since the overlap doesn't quite cover it.
I did some fun modifications using a ribbon on the pocket as a detail, and zig-zag stitching on the belt loops, but other from that I stuck closely to the pattern.  I  think my 3rd pair will be the best!  I'm going to try for a pair of "skinny" jeans that I can easily tuck into boots, or use as pedal pushers, and not suffer the "muffin-top" look.  Wish me luck!